Cosenza is the largest province in Calabria, and its capital city, also called Cosenza, is quickly becoming known as the “Athens of Calabria” for its architecture, art, and culture. One of the great things about this city is its location – you are not more than 30 minutes from a beach or the mountains, which makes it a great place for a “home base” while traveling.
If you’re planning a trip to Calabria, we think you should stop in Cosenza. Continue reading to discover some of our favorite things to do there. If you want to explore southern Italy in the company of expert locals, please consider booking a place on one of our Small Group Tours in Calabria, Puglia, and Basilicata.
Wander Cosenza’s Historic Center
As you walk down the main street, Corso Telesio, the historic center may seem small at first glance. However, as you explore, you will discover a network of small alleyways and steps that lead to different levels of the town, revealing that it is actually quite expansive.
At the heart of the old town stands the Cathedral, built in a Gothic style in the 7th century. Its impressive presence seems to dwarf the tall buildings surrounding the square where it is located.
Continuing along the picturesque Corso Telesio, you will arrive at another large square known as Piazza XV Marzo. This square is home to one of the region’s most important theaters, the Rendano Theater, as well as many significant historical, political, and cultural buildings. Adjacent to the square is Villa Vecchia, a public garden featuring ancient trees, fountains, and statues that provide a peaceful space for strolling, reading, or simply escaping the city’s hustle and bustle.
Sitting at the top of the historic center is the Castello Svevo (Norman-Swabian Castle), which dates back to 1132, although it is believed that the original structure goes back even further. After numerous earthquakes and bombings during the Second World War, the castle was in shambles, but thankfully, a restoration project was set up, which has brought the castle new life and has made it accessible to visitors. From the castle, you get the most incredible view of Cosenza and its surrounding hills from the terrace.
Experience Life Like a Local in Cosenza
Just over the river from the historic center lies the newer, more modern city of Cosenza. Here, you’ll find the pedestrian area, Corso Mazzini, bustling with locals who are shopping, meeting friends for an aperitivo, taking a stroll, or simply enjoying the atmosphere of the city. During the day, you can indulge in window shopping, savor gelato, and experience the lively day-to-day life that makes you feel like a local.
As you walk along Corso Mazzini toward Piazza Bilotti, take the time to admire the variety of art sculptures that comprise the “Museo all’Aperto Bilotti” (MAB), or the open-air museum. These statues, created by local, national, and international artists, were donated to the city of Cosenza by art collector Carlo Bilotti before his passing in 2006.
Take the whole experience another step further by indulging in the “evening passeggiata” when everyone unwinds with a walk and chat with friends and family they meet along the strip.
Enjoy the Local Cuisine in Cosenza
Whether you are in the historic center or along Corso Mazzini, you absolutely must stop into one of its many trattorias, cafes, and restaurants to sample the city’s traditional foods. Looking for something to satisfy your sweet tooth? We recommend going to the historic Gran Caffé Renzelli, located in the historic center on Corso Telesio just before Piazza XV Marzo, and asking for the café’s signature sweet, “Varchiglia alla Monacale” which was initially invented by nuns and dates back to the 1300s. The café takes great pride in this tradition and loves sharing the story of this sweet’s origins with tourists.
If you happen to be stopping for lunch or dinner, then you can’t go wrong with a plate of “Lagane e Ceci”. This traditional pasta made with homemade noodles and chickpeas is simple but oh-so yummy! You’ll also find “patate mpacchiuse” on many menus in Cosenza. The word “mpacchhiuse” is dialect for the Italian word appiccicoso, which means sticky. The name of this dish comes from the fact that the potatoes are sliced thinly and cooked in a way that causes them to stick together. The result is flavorful cooked potatoes with a bit of crunch around the edges.
Cosenza is quickly becoming one of the must-see places to visit when in Calabria – it has something for everyone and allows you to get a taste of the old along with a taste of the new.
We will be visiting Cosenza on our tours this year. Check out our Small Group Tours of Calabria and Southern Italy.