Experiencing Italy: Slowing Down in Positano, by Robin Locker

Since I began the Experiencing Italy series, we’ve visited a Roman neighborhood, spent a morning on the Amalfi Coast and seen Rome, Venice and Abruzzo through the eyes of a traveler. This week we are back in Amalfi-in postcard-perfect Positano, with travel writer, consultant and photographer, Robin Locker.

One of my favorite experiences in Italy was spending a few days on the Amalfi Coast – in Positano to be exact.

Part of the fun was getting there. We had rented a car and decided to drive down to the coast from Rome. After passing through Naples, the road begins to wind around dangerous jagged cliffs which hug the Tyrrhenian Sea. At times, the straight drop down to the water is not for the faint of heart.

It was a scary, thrilling, yet jaw-droppingly beautiful ride, complete with crazy young Italian boys on Vespas, weaving in and out of traffic, passing you around blind corners – taking their life into their hands at every turn.

Once we reached our hotel in Positano, we were greeted with a view few people get to experience – and perhaps only in the movies. More than once a day, we stood on our balcony and pinched each other – we truly felt that we were living in some fantasy dreamland.

Layers of pastel-colored houses tucked into the cliffs, which seem to just hang in mid-air; vibrant purple and fuchsia bougainvillea dripping over balconies, the verdant hills above us shrouded in mist and fog; sunshine reflecting off the intricate majolica tiles of the Duomo in the heart of town; the sea, which changed from turquoise to teal to aquamarine, depending on the weather and time of day.

For three days we did nothing but enjoy a leisurely visit, as it felt appropriate to just let Positano casually lead us by the hand for our visit. During the day, we wove our way down narrow pathways and uneven stone steps to the beach, popping in and out of local artisan shops selling everything from groceries to resort ware to custom-made sandals.

Once at the Spiaggia Grande, the main beach, we plopped down on our brightly-colored chaise lounges and relaxed to the sound of the sea crashing into the rocky beach.

Eventually, we wound our way through the shady stone walkways, passed the fortress, the Torre di Trasita to the quieter, secluded, Fornillo Beach.

One evening we enjoyed a beautiful sunset while dining on local fish and crisp, white wine, suspended above the sea on the restaurant’s private balcony for two. It was an unforgettable moment.

And how could I forget that Positano was the first place I ever sampled the divine limoncello, a sweet and tart lemon liquor native to the area.

I am thankful for my time spent at this little jewel of a seaside town and hope to return one day. If you ever get the opportunity to visit, do yourself a favor and don’t pass it up!

* Photos copyright Robin Locker. They may not be reprinted without consent.

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4 Responses
  1. Robin, you didn’t knock on my door?? The terrace I have is where the phrase ‘dolce far niente’ was invented! 😉

    We’ll have to get on to her about that, won’t we?

    Positano hiking– Teetering on the Brink of a Mountain =-.

  2. Great post and reading it revived memories of driving that coastal road from Roma for the first time back in the seventies in a Triumph Spitfire!!

    I’m so glad you enjoyed Robin’s post.

    Carta d’Identita =-.

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